The Catcher Of Miao Traditional Culture --- Kaili Miao Clothing

There are 8 towns, 2 townships and 5 subdistrict offices in Kaili, Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture. The total population is 455 thousand, of which the Miao population is 330 thousand.

Because of the time when the Miao ancestors moved to Kaili, after being settled and influenced by their geographical environment and the surrounding culture, they naturally formed several relatively stable costumes and cultural circles.

Today, the Miao men's clothing in Kaili is no different from that of Han nationality. The so-called Miao dress refers to the dress of Miao women.

Miao women are the Miao costumes and the producers of Miao costumes.

Kaili Miao costumes are embroidered, batik, tapestry, silver ornaments in one, the style is simple, elegant style, for Chinese and foreign scholars attention, about Kaili Miao costumes, a lot, known as "wear on the body of history", "wear on the culture", and put

It can be divided into four types: "boat type", "Bala river type", "bay water type" and "Kai Tang style".

At the same time, Miao costumes are also favored by Chinese and foreign collectors. In recent twenty years, people have been entering Miao villages, searching for clothing, embroidery pieces, brocade and batik, which are relatively old.

1. Boat Creek style dress of Miao Nationality

One day in July 2009, we came to Ma Tian Village, Wanchao Town, Kaili, to visit Yang Shuyi, a Miao folk craft artist living here.

Yang Shi Yi, 42 years old, is clever and dexterity. When she was a child, she studied embroidery and brocade skills with her mother, and became a master in the production of Miao costumes.

To make Miao costumes, we must master embroidery, brocade, silver ornaments and other superb skills.

The production of silver ornaments is mainly done by male craftsmen. Embroidery and tapestry are the way of women.

Yang Zhi Yi's Miao branch is commonly known as "Miao Miao". Its costumes are skirts and skirts, and its style is simple and simple.

"Miao Miao" is mainly distributed in some villages of Kaili, such as boat town, Wan Chao Town, yatun town and San kshu town. Some scholars call this Miao costumes "boat style Miao costumes".

The characteristics are: the top is a blue and white cloth, half sleeves and 3 pairs of buttons and 5 buttons.

When you wear your sleeves, roll your sleeves and wear your sleeves.

They are mostly made of purple satin fabrics, sleeves embroidered with applique, cocoon pieces embroidered and horsetail embroidery.

Waist belt.

The summer dress is wearing short skirts, while the costumes are embroidered with a number of embroidered skirts.

Embroidered shoes with legs or leggings.

Yang Shu Yi showed us the skills of embroidering and embroidering with horsetail embroidery.

Mastering the technique of patch embroidery, we must also cut paper, and the flowers, birds, fish and worms cut out by Yang Shu Yi scissors are vivid and vivid.

It seems that she is also an artist of paper cutting.

Ma Tian Village is a mixed village with Miao and Han nationalities. About 1/3 of the Han nationality are in the village, and the Miao nationality has surnames such as pan, dragon, Zhao and Yang.

Pan Zezhong, a retired village primary school teacher, is 74 years old. He taught at Martin primary school at the age of 18 until he retired.

Yang Shu Yi is his daughter-in-law. Yang Shu Yi's husband is also a primary school teacher. He teaches at GE he primary school near Martin. Yang Shu Yi has a high school education level. Her daughter took part in the college entrance examination this year and got a score line.

In the history of Ma Tian Village, it focused on the cultural education of the next generation.

The villagers here are fluent in Chinese, and the men and women wear the same clothes as the townspeople.

So, where does Yang's products sell? Yang Yang tells us that the Miao men here are no longer wearing the Miao clothes, but they still need to prepare a traditional robe of a silk fabric, a mandarin jacket and a "old clothes", so that they can wear them in a hundred years' time. In the grand national festival, some old people will also put on the "old clothes" to show them.

Whoever has a girl's family, regardless of her daughter's middle school or university, will provide them with one or two sets of Hmong costumes and brocade braces. Some of the families in this cultural circle, or because they are working as cadres, or because they work outside the country, have no time to make their own clothes for their daughters.

The Miao costumes produced by Yang Shu Yi are sold at the price of 1500 yuan to 1800 yuan each.

Next to the Kimcheon Lake in Kaili, there is a market selling Miao costumes and asking Yang why he doesn't go there to set up stalls.

Yang says that the products sold there can be said to be imitation goods, and embroidery is mostly made with machine embroidery.

Yang Shu Yi's works are thousands of needles and lines, all of which are hand crafted, with the older generation's deep love for their children. Therefore, they are welcomed and trusted by their compatriots.

Yang Shu Yi concentrated seven or eight smart women in the village, instructing them in various embroidery techniques and speeding up the cycle of dress production.

Speaking, a pure young girl came to us. After questioning, she was called Zhao Longyan, 18 years old. He was a student in the medical and Nursing Department of Career Technical College in Qiandongnan. She is now working on an internship.

Yang Shu Yi asked her to go back to wear the Miao dress to show us. Zhao Longyan shyly shit for a while and went back to dress up.

Zhao Longyan, dressed in a splendid costume, turned around and made our eyes bright and full of youthful beauty.

We sincerely praise the Miao family for having such a beautiful and healthy descendant, and also admire Yang's skill of superb Miao costumes.

Yang Shu Yi and Zhao Longyan's mother, Kim Mei, took out their own tapestry to show us that they were handed down by their grandmother's grandmother.

They say that when a mother has a daughter, she will make a tapestry in addition to dressing up her daughter carefully.

The brocade technique is extremely difficult. Even if it is a skillful hand, it is not easy to make a single day. When the mother first comes up with a brocade, and when her daughter can study on the plane, she will teach her daughter the skills, and the Miao Jin and the costumes will be accompanied by her daughter.

The exquisite brocade is used for back straps on the back of the baby, and it has poured into the attention of the Miao people for the reproduction and reproduction, and the hope for the healthy and bright future of the future generations.

We then went to the village of Tsing man in the town of Zhou Xi and visited the 40 year old Miao woman, Pan Ying, to do silk silk brocade.

To the Xinguang village, a 63 year old Miao woman, Loong Mei Mei, was weaving to make a brocade waist.

The brocade brocade, which was collected by villagers, was visited in Qinggang village, and the use of tapestry was photographed.

Wherever they go, they are all moved by the continuous inheritance of the boat style Miao costume.

Two, Bala River style Miao costumes

In August 2, 2009, we went to the village of three villages in Kaili.

Ge Xi village is a large Miao village with more than 800 families.

The name of "Ge Xi village" frequently appears in the Miao ancient songs and Miao folklore, which makes us pay special attention to this Miao village.

That day, Ge Xi village just passed the new festival.

In Guiyang and Kaili, the fine people and the relatives close to the county have come to celebrate the festival, and the village is full of auspicious festive atmosphere.

Lattice village is located on the Bara River, and is at the junction of Lei Shan county and Taijiang county.

In 2003,

"The bala river rural tourism demonstration project" was identified as one of the nine demonstration projects and was officially launched in April 2004.

The goal of the project is to explore a way to build a whole set of rural tourism development, integrating the beautiful scenery, national culture, historical relics and pastoral style. "The reservation of the world's Miao cultural heritage" is the soul of the bala river village tourism, which includes ancient post road, Miao dance, ancient architecture, ancient granary, centuries old song, Lusheng performance and so on.

So the Miao nationality clothing in the bala river basin is also a highlight of tourism projects.

Some scholars claim that the dress style in this area is called "Bala River style Miao costumes".

The costumes are for the top collar, the collar is backward, the sleeves, the buttons, the collar, and the shoulders are decorative parts. The designs are double headed dragons, flying phoenix, butterflies, bird lines, etc.

The local Miao language is called "Bei Bei".

The lower is a Tibetan blue pleated skirt, with a concave and convex skirt interlaced, long ankles, and long skirts around skirts and skirts with a skirt around the skirt.

We asked Yang Yue, director of the village committee, whether there were any traditional Miao clothes in the village.

He said it was hard to find. In the past few years, people came to the village to buy old clothes. Even the older and the more valuable, they were almost sold out.

However, his sister, Yang pony, had two old clothes, which were kept by his sister's sister-in-law, Yang Shenglan. In the past few years, five thousand or six thousand yuan had been sold, and they had not been sold.

Yang Puni's family lived in a place called Yu Zhai beside the village. Yang Yue took us to her home. Just as Yang Sheng Lan and Yang Pu Ni were at home, they heard about our intention. They proudly took out two embroidered coats handed down by the group. Yang Shenglan said that her grandmother's grandmother passed down, and how to say it has a history of one hundred or two hundred years.

We look at these two jackets, embroidered with crepe embroidery and embroidered embroidery. One is a double headed dragon, the other is a bird pattern. Although it is very old, it is still dazzling and dazzling, with a solemn and elegant design.

Please put Yang Shenglan on the camera, and the lens is even more elegant.

We asked why we didn't want to sell it. She said that her husband was a teacher in the middle school, called Yu Tianrong, who had explained many times: "this is a treasure uploaded by our ancestors. It must be passed down from generation to generation."

Here, they stick to not only the ancestral clothes, but also a precious national cultural psychology.

Ask them whether there are people in the village making such clothes. Their answer is yes.

So we saw Long Qilan, a 70 year old Miao nationality woman in the village of Ge, and Yu Lan Lan, a 60 year old Miao woman.

In their homes, we not only saw their collection of embroidered clothes, but also saw their embroidery skills.

And to get acquainted with their "disciples" - Yu Lan's daughter-in-law Lu Mei and long Qi Lan's daughter-in-law, Chen Shimei.

In addition, we also visited some old people's Miao and nhua Miao villages with the same dress, and visited some elderly people and folk embroidery masters. The conclusion is that the bala River style Miao costumes are still inherited in the new environment.

Three. Bay style Miao clothing.

What we often see

It is the typical costumes of Wan Shui style clothing Miao girls.

The upper garment of adult women is the middle length coat, the collar is backward, the cuff is wide and short, and the sleeves turn to the elbows.

Casual wear is sky blue, black cloth, no frills.

The dress is made of self dyed cloth or dyed satin.

The girl and the young woman have a embroidered Square embroidered piece on the back of their dress. The embroidered pieces are decorated with embroidered stripes.

The collar and bosom are a group of "silkworm Diagrams", usually from seven to eleven.

Two all of the skirts are provided with tapestry flowers for their clothing.

The brocade waistband is four fingers wide.

The lower skirt is pleated skirt, and the skirt is decorated with dots, flowers, or bird wings. The skirt is long to the ankle, and the skirt is embroidered with a waist or a brocade waist.

The blue and white cloth Leggings of the shank during the autumn and winter seasons.

The dress is silver, silver apron, silver crown, silver hairpin, silver earring, silver collar, silver hand bracelet, silver ring, silver bell, silver belt.

The silver ornament weighs five or six kilograms, and is one of the most popular types of silver.

In June 29, 2009 and September 10th, we visited the town of Wan Shui. Yang Liang, the deputy mayor of science and education and culture, was very enthusiastic. He immediately mobilized some family members of the town's cadres and some members of the folk song performance team to show us the national costumes and let us take photos.

He also organized their field operation of cross stitch embroidery and stitching embroidery and brocade skills.

The brocade of Miao Nationality in the waters of the bay is made of raw materials.

It is also unique to use the method of passing through the broken weft.

Yang Liang also specially explained that a cadre's family member wore all silver ornaments, including silver cap, silver collar, silver chain and so on.

Yang Liang said that the Miao people of the WAN Shui style Miao culture circle are particularly fond of silver ornaments. Now even the seven or eight year old girl, their parents have prepared silver ornaments and other silver ornaments for them. On every national traditional festival, a group of girls and girls, who wear silvery ornaments, are the targets of the fans.

He also said that if he went further into the remote Miao village, he could find more embroidered craftsmen, experts in making pleated skirts and knitted brocade brocade.

Wan Shui style clothing culture circle mainly includes Miao Shui village, benghai Town, Dengfeng cave Township and Lvshan town.

Gu Yongqing took us to visit the 64 year old brocade master Yang Jinhua in the village of Long Tang. Yang Jinhua had two looms, a woven cloth with a rhombus pattern of "Pepper cloth" and a brocade brocade.

She imparted her skills to her daughter, daughter-in-law and granddaughter.

The Miao nationality dress in Kaili is a masterpiece created by Miao women following the traditional aesthetic concepts and cultural psychology of Miao people.

It is a symbol of Miao's historical memory. It is one of the important carriers of Miao culture. It carries rich cultural information and cultural details of Miao people. It is a living fossil for exploring the history of Chinese national costume culture and has precious scientific research value.

At the same time, Miao costumes are the product of the etiquette culture of Miao people and the witness of the development of Miao's social history.

A Miao woman can only make one or two fine clothes in her lifetime. It is used for display during major festivals and a funeral after death.

With the death of the grandmothers with the most sophisticated skills, the surviving Hmong finery is becoming less and less precious.

Through the investigation and interview, we deeply felt the impact of the contemporary mainstream culture on traditional national culture, and also met with a group of catcher of the traditional culture of the Miao nationality.